Sushi Kai

In-the-know epicureans might already be acquainted with the Tokyo-born school of sushi called Edomae, but venture further north to the icy-cold region of Hokkaido, and they will find another style that deserves equal attention: the Ezeomae sushi. When Sushi Miyagawa, one of Sapporo’s top sushi spots, relocated to Maruyama's outskirts, its owner left the reins to longtime right-hand man, Terada Kai, who embraced the opportunity to open his namesake in 2022 and took it as a sign to pass the traditions of Ezomae sushi forward. Sushi Kai’s take on Ezomae sushi debriefs Hokkaido’s culinary essence through its use of regional fish, alongside Kai’s own dexterity. Diners at the counter watch him craft inventive dishes like smoked Uchiura Bay swordfish paired with yellow melon and cracked pepper, or straw-grilled bonito. Expect sushi that spotlights local waters, where the details shine: white shrimp is cured in kombu and lightly seared for texture, while tuna is marinated for exactly three hours — no more, no less — to tenderize the meat. But perhaps out of all the things that Sushi Kai does right — from its tranquil, earthen-walled space and sleek blonde counter to the intimate dining experience — what often surprises patrons most is Kai’s seamless switch between Japanese and fluent English, courtesy of his past residency in New York. As the course progresses, Kai’s light, friendly banter puts guests at ease, guiding them through the experience as smoothly as the Japanese sake they sip.