Onzoushi Kiyoyasutei Roppongi

The white noren at the entrance gently billows and stands out among the throng of ultra-posh boutique shops of Roppongi. A narrow staircase leads to an underground space that gets treated by moody lights, anchored by a center courtyard with shrubbery lining a shallow pond. The entire vibe feels more ethereal than luxurious — exactly what Onzoushi Kiyoyasutei aimed for through its fit-out. The name says it all: “onzoushi” loosely translates to “the heir of a rich man.” The establishment specializes in delicacies like kegani, or Japanese horsehair crab from Hokkaido, prepared fresh from the store’s fish tank and ready to be turned into sashimi, shabu-shabu and grilled dishes. Elsewhere, their iron grill also sees ample use with two of Japan’s most lauded kuroge wagyu: Kobe beef, sourced from Tajima cattle in Hyogo Prefecture that exceeds strict standards, and Matsusaka beef, sourced from trusted partners. Then there’s the menu, which segues from knockout hairy crab tempura and fish hotpot to a simple but mighty final dish of soba noodles. Ingredients of the day, such as abalone, lobster and marbled beef, are presented on trays. Sashimi is served in a stunning kaleidoscope of color, and barbecue crabs in their shells are kissed by flame through the iron mesh. Conversations are always somewhat muffled, while servers discreetly shuffle between private rooms and tables. Antique vases and sunken tables are slight nods to ryotei-style dining which elevate Onzoushi Kiyoyasutei’s experience from the average to once-in-a-lifetime.