Izugen

Near Nishiki Market, Izugen does not face the main street and has silently occupied a well-worn Japanese townhouse for over 100 years. The same secretive disposition is reflected in third-generation owner Ishida Yasuyuki, who, like his predecessors, stays behind the scenes when making Kyo-sushi, the ancestor of modern nigiri. A master craftsman, Ishida cooks rice with the help of kelp and bonito stock like a true local with an abiding respect for dashi. Mackerel sushi, a cornerstone of Kyoto’s sushi heritage, is his specialty; the fatty fish is marinated in a delicate vinegar that contrasts beautifully with the mature flavor of the sushi rice. He presses rice and fish into wooden molds to create hakozushi; his cuts are clean, and his sushi is arranged with zero-error precision. Ishida’s brilliant mastery of sushi shifts throughout the season: Fukumaki-sushi in the spring, hamo sugatazushi during the summer and warm chirashi sushi steamed in a ceramic bowl in the winter. The rustic dining space carries a gentle hum as decade-old regulars enjoy his creations and create a storybook feel. Here, Kyo-sushi is traditionally enjoyed without soy sauce or wasabi, and is designed to be eaten exactly as it is presented. Originally designed for take-outs, you’ll often find Ishida dashing through the streets of Gion on his bike to deliver sushi to his long-time patrons. Izugen is a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant for 2024.