OBENKEI Kyoto Gion

2023 was a milestone year for the Benkei Company, the renowned group behind a string of successful sushi establishments across Tokyo and Niigata Prefecture. Originating from Sado Island — an area celebrated for its heritage-listed gold mines and outstanding seafood — the company expanded its reach to Kyoto's historic Gion district, bringing the island’s rich culinary traditions to a wider audience through the opening of its latest venue: OBENKEI Kyoto Gion. The sushi restaurant sits between the stone-paved streets of Shirakawasuji Lane and Shinbashi-dori, among the rows of traditional machiya townhouses by Tatsumi Bridge. Sharing its space with Kani Kani Land on the first floor, the second-floor OBENKEI Kyoto Gion presents a compelling case for the place of fresh Sado Island seafood in Kyoto’s refined dining scene. While the exterior maintains its traditional soul — wooden latticework, tiled roof and a horse-proof fence — the interior has undergone a thoughtful transformation into a tranquil, modern space with window seats overlooking Shirakawa River. Attention is given to sushi from freshly caught fish off the coast of Sado and Koshihikari rice from the same region, gently seasoned with red vinegar. The restaurant has recruited a team of expert chefs, who form each morsel of sushi rice and skillfully slices the neta (topping) with precision right before the open counter. The tempura is equally impressive, with seasonal seafood fried to perfection, often featuring Kyoto’s local vegetables in homage to the restaurant’s new home. Both omakase and a la carte dining options are available, with courses often beginning with a selection of sashimi — such as abalone or snow crab — followed by nigiri. Serene but sunny, OBENKEI Kyoto Gion is fit for special celebrations and more low-key meals. Diners can even enjoy fresh seafood and mountain delicacies during lunchtime. A wide selection of wines tops the experience.