Beginner’s Guide to Wagyu: Types, Grades & Where to Eat

The name wagyu, if translated literally, actually refers to all types of Japanese beef cattle, as the wa (和) means Japanese and the gyu (牛) means cow. 

However, in recent decades, the term has been exclusively used to refer to four special types of Japanese cow breeds renowned for their superior, white-specked marbling, tender meat and low melting point. 

With its subtle umami flavor and buttery texture, often described in Japanese as kuchidoke (melt-in-your-mouth), wagyu's reputation and price tag often precede it. Dishes like the wagyu sando (sandwich) and wagyu burger are frequently sensationalized on social media, leaving many to wonder whether the hype is justified or simply excessive.

With so many ranchers dedicating decades of their lives to breeding, raising and managing these lauded cows, this commitment embodies Japan’s shokunin spirit — the philosophy of creating something not just one’s best ability, but of one’s relentless pursuit of excellence and perfection.

Wagyu is a type of high-quality beef from Japan, known for its rich marbling and tenderness. 

Traditionally, the term "wagyu" referred to all Japanese native cattle. Now it refers to four specific breeds of cattle that are renowned for their premium quality, also called kairyo wagyu (developed wagyu). 

Not all beef that is raised in Japan, no matter how soft and marbled they are, can be labeled as wagyu. The Japanese Meat Grading Association maintains strict rules over authentic wagyu cattle and grading systems. 

Many trade unions and organizations help monitor the lineage of cows and establish rules for raising, breeding and assessing wagyu. 

In fact, since 2007, only four breeds of wagyu and their crossbreed raised and duly registered in Japan are allowed to be labeled as wagyu for meat. Cattle used for dairy or those not meeting wagyu criteria are required to be labeled as “domestic beef” (kokusangyu), not wagyu, to avoid misleading customers. 

Today, while most wagyu beef is imported from Japan, the country once exported hundreds of cattle annually until the government declared wagyu a national treasure and banned the export of live cattle. 

Until then, Japanese wagyu were crossbred with American breeds, primarily Angus, to maintain the lineage. In the US and Canada, the American Wagyu Association classifies wagyu based on genetic purity, from F1 (50% wagyu) to purebred (100% wagyu).

Following the ban, some wagyu cattle were previously still raised in foreign lands through blended bloodlines, but the export ban led to a decline in the purity of these cattle. As a result, most high-quality wagyu must still be imported from Japan.

The origin of wagyu is an interesting tale. Before the Meiji Restoration in 1868 — roughly from the sixth to 18th century — Japanese cattle were not raised for consumption due to the influence of Buddhism; the emperor had placed a ban on eating meat, and Japanese people had relied more on fish and vegetables for protein.

Instead, these cattle were primarily used as draft animals, aiding in tasks such as transporting goods and plowing fields. Known as “swift bulls,” these resilient animals were valued for their endurance, a trait made possible due to their high intramuscular fat. 

The same fat cells that were once essential for the cattle’s endurance are now known as 'marbling,' a key feature of wagyu beef.

The landscape changed with the Meiji Restoration, when Japan opened its borders and began interacting with foreign cultures and, subsequently, new diets (this was also around the time that yoshoku, or “Japan-Western” fusion cuisine, was born). 

The new port of Yokohama attracted foreign settlers whose diets included beef. In response to growing demand, sailors began importing meat from the US, China and Korea, but could not keep up with the demands. 

By 1866, the first cattle were slaughtered in Japan for meat after a sailor negotiated with a local cattle merchant. Meat consumption remained uncommon in Japan until 1872, when the emperor ate meat for the first time and beef began to gain popularity (rumor has it that cattle production spiked by 13 times that year). 

By 1875, the number of cattle slaughtered monthly for consumption had reached 800 in Kobe, 600 in Yokohama and 500 in Kyoto.

The open trade borders also meant that ranchers started to cross-breed native Japanese cows with Western bulls. It took several decades for the superior taste of wagyu beef to be widely recognized. 

By the 1990s, it became clear that cross-breeding with other cattle breeds, while relatively easy, did not produce desirable results. Hybrid cows were often “oversized,” “slow,” “sluggish” and “temperamental,” which made them inconvenient for Japan’s narrow land. 

The government, through a series of surveys of crossbreeding programs and research, determined four major cattle breeds that were apt to be called “pure wagyu” — Kuroge (Black), Akage (Brown), Tankaku (Shorthorn) and Mukaku (Polled).

Meat in Japan is generally more expensive due to the limited land available, making the cattle industry much smaller compared to the US. Feedlots in Japan, as reference, typically accommodate between 10 and 100 cattle, resulting in a limited supply of wagyu beef, which contributes to its high cost.

Several factors contribute to the operational expense of wagyu production. For instance, wagyu cattle are fed for approximately 600 days — often around 30 months — on a specialized diet to enhance marbling. 

This extended feeding period is significantly longer than the 120 days typically required for domestic beef. Some wagyu cattle are even fed sake lees — a by-product of sake production that’s rich in lactic acid bacteria, enzymes, proteins and amino acids — during the final six months to impart a sweeter flavor.

Additionally, ranchers carefully manage the environment and pastures where the cattle are raised. They believe that a low-stress environment is crucial for optimal meat development. 

Interestingly, harsh climates can lead some wagyu cattle to naturally develop higher fat content. Take Yukifuri wagyu, for example. These cows are raised in the snowy, wintry climates of Obanazawa, where the freezing conditions contribute to the distinctive snow-like marbling in the meat. 

Read more: 3 Halal Wagyu Restaurants in Tokyo

Although many types of beef might be labeled as wagyu, these are often referred to as wagyu "brands" in Japan, such as Kobe or Matsusaka beef. However, there are only four officially recognized types of wagyu:

The ultra-marbled meat often showcased in pictures and displays usually comes from the Japanese Black breed. Known for its large size and muscular build, Japanese Black wagyu accounts for 97% of all wagyu raised in Japan. 

Despite its Japanese name meaning “red cow,” the Japanese Brown breed is horned and smaller, primarily raised in Kumamoto and Kochi prefectures. 

This breed produces leaner meat with a lighter, finer fat texture than others.

The Japanese Shorthorn has never been bred outside Japan and tends to graze rather than consume grain-based feed, resulting in leaner meat with lower fat content. 

Raised mainly in the Tohoku Region, this breed often has a Beef Marbling Score (BMS) of 3 or below. While not the highest on the scale, the unique taste derived from inosinic and glutamic acids is valued by some enthusiasts.

The Japanese Polled breed, a product of crossbreeding with Scottish Angus and Japanese Black cattle, is critically endangered, with only a few hundred individuals remaining. This rare breed is known for its unique characteristics and limited population.

In Japan, beef grades are approved by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries and overseen by the Japanese Meat Grading Association (JMGA). 

Ever heard a restaurant boast about offering A5 wagyu? This is a significant accolade, as it represents the highest grade of wagyu based on two critical criteria: yield and meat quality.

The yield grade measures the percentage of edible meat from a cow and is categorized into three grades: A, B, and C, with A being the highest. Meat quality is assessed based on four factors: marbling, meat color, firmness and texture, and fat distribution. 

Quality is graded on a scale from 1 to 5, with 5 being the highest. Together, these criteria create up to 15 possible combinations for wagyu beef grading.

Each criterion within meat quality also has its own specific standards.

1. Marbling (サシ, sashi) is one of the most notable characteristics of wagyu and is assessed using the Beef Marbling Standard (BMS), which scores from 1 to 12.

2. Color is evaluated by the glossiness of the red meat, using a chart called the Beef Color Standard (BCS).

3. Texture assesses the firmness of the meat; paradoxically, firmer meat indicates good moisture content and excellent texture.

4. Fat quality is determined by the color of the fat, with whiter fat indicating better quality and yellower fat suggesting lower quality.

Wagyu beef is intensely marbled with softer fat, has higher percentages of monounsaturated fats, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, and is lower in cholesterol than commodity beef. The combinations of these fats deliver a distinctive rich and tender flavor compared to other beef.

Wagyu beef differs from regular beef in several key aspects:

1. Marbling: Wagyu is renowned for its intense marbling, particularly the Japanese Black which refers to the intramuscular fat that gives the meat its rich, buttery texture. This marbling is far superior to that of regular beef, resulting in a melt-in-your-mouth experience.

2. Breeding and care: Wagyu cattle are raised with exceptional care, often receiving special diets and stress-free environments. For example, whereas normal domestic beef follows a typical 120-day feeding program, wagyu cattle can be fed for 600-700 days on a special diet.

3. Price: Due to its quality, rarity and production methods, wagyu is considerably more expensive than regular beef. 

Thanks to its almost even fat distribution, wagyu beef has a rich, buttery flavor with a delicate sweetness. 

It’s not chewy and greasy when grilled, but juicy and tender when the intense marbling of fat melts during cooking, creating a juicy, tender bite that almost dissolves in your mouth. 

Its umami taste is more pronounced than in regular beef, giving it a savory depth that lingers on the palate.

Located in Roppongi, Wagyu Yakiniku Kakunoshin Roppongi is helmed by the renowned "Niku Ojisan" (Meat Uncle), Chiba Masuo. Chiba carefully selects female Japanese kuroge wagyu, weighing 400 kilograms and fattened for 30 months, with millet used in their final months to enhance sweetness. 

The meat is aged in a climate-controlled storage on the restaurant's first floor, then hung and cut into thick chunks. 

At the table, it’s grilled on an iron mesh, lightly greased with wagyu fat, using Chiba's innovative “Water Balloon Method” and served without seasoning.

The result is an exceptional dining experience, with the beef boasting a perfect balance of robust flavor and tender texture.

Find out more: Meet the "Uncle of Meat": A Review of Kakunoshin Roppongi

The kiln-roasted steak, or rogama steak, is a well-guarded culinary secret in Japan, skillfully prepared by head chef Shinuya Suzuki at his Shibuya steakhouse. 

Rogama Steak Arcanum exclusively uses Tamura beef, a distinguished sub-breed of Tajima beef, which is the origin of all branded Japanese wagyu beef. 

When cooked using the rogama method, Tamura beef’s low melting point and rich marbling cause it to melt in your mouth, releasing an aromatic fragrance that enhances the dining experience.

This west Tokyo gem, Lee-en Nakano, has been a fixture in Nakano for 35 years, earning its reputation as one of the area’s most enduring yakiniku grilled meat establishments. 

The restaurant prides itself on serving only A4-grade meat, guaranteeing each cut is exquisitely marbled and delectably tender. 

Dining at Lee-en Nakano is a sensory experience: the ambiance is filled with the sounds and smells of grilling meat, while each bite of beef is exceptionally juicy and flavorful.

Originally presented as a wagyu beef yakiniku fine-dining venue, Kyoyakiniku Hiro Yasakatei offers a captivating twist with its fusion of kaiseki multicourse cuisine. 

The restaurant sources whole cattle directly from the Kyoto Meat Wholesale Market, ensuring faster, fresher delivery by bypassing intermediaries. 

Rather than focusing on a single regional breed, Hiro Yasakatei adheres to its own rigorous standards. The in-house preparation includes a variety of beef cuts: the tender wagyu yukhoe (beef tartare) with egg yolk is a delightful treat, while the standout feature is the crosshatch-scored thick tongue, grilled right before your eyes.

It hasn’t been an easy ride for this Kyoto wagyu restaurant, which opened its doors during the height of the pandemic in 2020, but has since established itself as a refined addition to The Junei Hotel. 

The menu at Nikukappo Futago showcases carefully curated, seasonal wagyu dishes that reflect Japan's four seasons. 

Guests are treated to three meticulously crafted wagyu courses, each thoughtfully paired with a selection of premium Japanese sake for a truly exquisite dining experience.

Before indulging in wagyu sukiyaki or seasonal kaiseki, take a moment to appreciate the Keicho-era grounds and intricate architecture of Ganko’s Takasegawa Nijoen, once the residence of renowned merchant Suminokura Ryoi. 

Named after the Takase River that flows through the property, the restaurant offers a picturesque setting that perfectly encapsulates the essence of Kyoto’s timeless beauty.

Read more: Best Wagyu in Kyoto

For people in Osaka, eating wagyu beef in shabu-shabu is considered the best form of hospitality, compared to the Kanto region. Here are the best places to try wagyu in Osaka

At the wagyu specialist Tennosachi Yamanosachi, you’ll have the chance to compare two of Japan's finest beef varieties: Omi and Miyazaki. The restaurant’s Miyazaki beef is personally sourced from local suppliers, granting access to rare cuts typically reserved for establishments within the prefecture. 

Meanwhile, only the most premium cuts of Omi beef are selected for sukiyaki and shabu-shabu, ensuring an exceptional hot pot experience. 

Decide for yourself which truly earns the title of Japan’s best wagyu…

Kitashinchi Shabushabu Kiraku’s shabu-shabu specialty menu showcases premium domestic beef, expertly sliced and served with a fragrant, flavorful broth. 

The indulgent truffle sukiyaki-shabu-shabu course adds a touch of luxury to the experience, while families and groups can enjoy exclusive deals on these exceptional Japanese dishes. 

The restaurant offers private rooms and special packages for celebrations, with rentals available for gatherings of up to 20 guests, ensuring a personalized and memorable dining experience.

Still craving the wonders of wagyu beef? Explore our full list of wagyu beef blogs:

• 13 Tokyo Restaurants Meat Lovers Will Adore (Ft. Wagyu, Kobe Beef & More)

• Kyoto’s World of Wagyu: 10 Best Wagyu Restaurants and Steakhouses in Kyoto

• Best Wagyu in Osaka: Top 12 Must-Try Restaurants

• Beginner's Guide to Kobe Beef: What is Kobe Beef & How It's Rated

• Where To Eat in Kobe: 9 Restaurants Where You Can Try Kobe Beef

• Matsusaka Beef: Where to Eat Japan's Most Expensive Wagyu

• A Michelin-Starred Wagyu Wonderland: A Review of Oniku Karyu

• 3 Halal Wagyu Restaurants in Tokyo

Wagyu beef is a premium type of Japanese beef known for its rich marbling, tenderness and intense flavor. It comes from specific Japanese cattle breeds and is highly prized for its superior quality.

Wagyu beef stands out due to its high marbling, which enhances the meat's flavor, tenderness and juiciness. The unique rearing methods and genetics of wagyu cattle contribute to the beef’s luxurious texture and taste.

Wagyu beef is graded by the Japanese Meat Grading Association (JMGA) based on yield (A, B, or C) and meat quality (1-5). 

The four recognized types of wagyu beef in Japan are Japanese Black (Kuroge), Japanese Brown (Akage), Japanese Shorthorn (Tankaku) and Japanese Polled (Mukaku), with Japanese Black being the most common.

Wagyu beef is expensive due to its meticulous breeding, long feeding process (often 600 days) and the care taken to produce its high marbling, which enhances flavor and texture. Limited supply also drives up the cost.

Wagyu beef contains a higher percentage of monounsaturated fats, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, making it a healthier option compared to regular beef. 

Wagyu beef is known for its buttery texture, melt-in-your-mouth tenderness and rich, umami flavor. The high marbling creates a juicy, savory experience that sets it apart from other beef.

Since 2007, the Japanese government considered wagyu a national treasure and banned imports of live cattle. However, some wagyu are now raised in America due to introduced bloodlines in the past, but it is extremely rare. 

Wagyu cattle are raised in stress-free environments with special diets, often including grains and even sake lees to enhance marbling and flavor. The cattle are pampered throughout their lives to ensure the best quality beef.

Wagyu beef itself can be halal, but it depends on how the cattle are raised and slaughtered. To be considered halal, the beef must meet specific requirements under Islamic law and slaughter method.

Find out more: 3 Halal Wagyu Restaurants in Tokyo

In Japan, wagyu beef is created by using very specific cattle-raising techniques, ensuring that the cattle:

• Live a life of minimal stress
• Are fed a diet of high-grade wheat, rice plants and hay
• Have access to open space to roam 

American farms may be able to achieve some of these requirements, but they are often nowhere near as regulated as Japan's wagyu cattle. 

Miyazaki Prefecture is one of the largest producers of wagyu, famous for its high-quality Miyazaki beef. To attain this lofty title, it must fit four criteria:

1. The cows must be born and raised in Miyazaki
2. The cows must be of the famous Japanese Black breed
3. The beef must be graded at least a Level 4 in the wagyu grading criteria
4. The seed bull must be either from Miyazaki or a first generation ancestor of a designated bull