Ogimachi Udonya Asuro

Walk south along Tenjinbashisuji Shopping Street, slip into one of its branched-out alleys and go under the noren banners to arrive at Ogimachi Udonya Asuro, a noodle den with a petite kitchen that borders the counter seating. Fans will find owner-chef Nishigori Koki, who apprenticed for six years at another udon-ya in Osaka, manning the noodle boiler. Characterized by their glossy finish, sticky texture and thinner cut, Nishigori’s udon creations are exciting. He mixes wheat flour with salt water to form the dough, using two types of flour — one from Hokkaido and another from Kyushu — to add body to the noodles, which are only boiled after an order is placed. For the apt blank-canvas experience, go for the simple “Hiyakake Udon” — cold udon submerged in clear dashi made from kelp, bonito flakes, mackerel and dried herring called “urume iwashi” — or the bukkake udon with chikuwa (fishcake) tempura and a soft-boiled egg. Add the extra eggplant and chikuwa (long fishcake) tempura when there’s more room in the stomach. Come hungry and with a good appetite for chewy, squiggly noodles — the joint’s Michelin status leaves no doubt why people are willing to queue for a taste. Michelin Guide accolades 2024 - Bib Gourmand