Menya Ittoku

It’s a walk-in joint in the Tenri area that bowls up chicken-based ramen with the traditional prescription of a ramen-ya: manual orders, counter seating and the lively hum of satisfied slurpers. Menya Ittoku works on just two precise ramen variations on the table: shio — or salt-based soup — or shoyu (soy sauce). The soup gets its flavor from a whole chicken, spiked with kombu kelp and dried fish, then topped with slow-temperature-cooked chashu, spinach and a fistful of crunchy green onions. Clear and thin noodles hold a firm texture even when they soak up all the broth. The key is to order one of the two — but you’d be a fool not to get the reputation-defining shio — and get the additional “shimemeshi,” which is rice with chicken. Service is no-frills — the cooks lean from the open counter to greet, “Irrashaimase,” takes your order and delivers the bowl of ramen in no time — and the restaurant occupies a time-weathered building with its own parking space. Menya Ittoku may not be fancy, but if you’ve come this far, it’s all about the ramen. Before you leave, remember to say, “Gochisosama deshita” (thank you for the meal). Michelin Guide accolades: 2024 - Bib Gourmand