Gion Yorozuya

Gion Yorozuya is consistent in a lot of things: its Michelin accolades (it’s been a long-term feature in the guidebook since 2016), its obsession with spring onions and its steady draw of customers looking for its award-winning udon. The “negi udon” is what the locals and out-of-town visitors rave about. Springy noodles swimming in kelp and bonito broth are partially hidden behind choppings of Kujo spring onions which lends a fragrant taste. The noodles are softer than the Sanuki-style, absorbing the stock the more you let them stay, while the small dollop of ginger adds a refreshing note to the soup. For a second visit, order the oyakodon — chicken and egg rice bowl — cooked with kelp stock or the “Kaho” udon, which is topped with sour pickled plum and kombu. Close to Yasaka Shrine, the shop is narrow and small with plenty of memorabilia to show. In the summer months, the owner decorates the walls with white fans used by geisha from the nearby Gion district.