Fish & Smoked Delicacies Sanbanya Mukonoso

Restaurant Details

It took 15 years after Sanbanya Mukonoso opened its doors in Amagasaki, Hyogo Prefecture, for the former sushi chef-turned-owner to fully discover the transformative power of smoking food. The pivotal moment came a few years ago when the typhoon cut the power line and shut off his fridge. Everything inside spoiled — except for the items he had smoked earlier.

From that moment, the menu at this charming izakaya has been driven by the creative art of smoking. A sense of adventure permeates its predominantly seafood-based menu, which solely relies on flames fueled by sustainably sourced wood chips and smoke to draw out — and amplify — the interesting flavors of each ingredient.

The seasonal menu often begins with smoked proteins and wild-caught, seasonal, each enhanced by the earthy, pleasantly bitter flavor of the smoke. Dishes range from mentaiko (cured pollock roe) and pickled radishes to steamed abalone. A standout is the chicken tempura, which is smoked, battered and fried to light-golden perfection.

Even the salt and house-made mayonnaise are smoked before being served. The drink selection is the result of five years of research by the owner to find affordable wines that pair beautifully with the food. Highballs and plum wine are stirred and, of course, smoked.

For Sanbanya Mukonoso’s white-themed Western design, the group is relying on lived-in textures and terracotta brickwork, plus a second floor for semi-private dining. Deftly portioned and expertly balanced, the dinner experience here is compelling for those who can truly appreciate the creative labor that goes into bringing Sanbanya’s bold ideas to life.