TOHAKU CHAKAN

The Okyokan, a 270-year-old heritage building housed on the premises of the Tokyo National Museum, has seen many custodians in its lifetime. Originally constructed in 1742 as a study room of the Mygoen-in Temple, it was later moved to the premises of Masuda Takashi, the former president of the corporate giant Mitsui and a revered tea master, before being gifted to the museum in 1933. ​Nothing much has changed since then. Japanese washi paper lanterns made by artisans bask the space in a warm glow; zabuton cushions from the Edo period provide plush seating; and the replicas of the fusuma sliding doors by the legendary Edo painter Maruyama Okyo compartmentalize the space. So when the structure was reborn as TOHAKU CHAKAN, a creative fusion restaurant-cum-teahouse run by the young executive chef Bahadir Kolerkilic, expectations were high. Luckily, with his previous stints in the kitchens of Thomas Keller and Alain Ducasse and his innovative approach to a traditionalist menu, Kolerkilic’s tenure was not only accepted but well-received. Save for the antique stacked bento box, the lineup is mostly a harmonious amalgamation of whatever cuisine Kolerkilic takes inspiration from. The mainstay, however, is the revered respect for Japan-grown ingredients and local produce, churned into stunning multicourses that don’t shy away from eye-watering expenses. One day, diners might find sushi rice crowned with caviar; another day, it could be the decadent Saga beef presented with haute finesse. As the seasons progress, the selection of vegetables, fruits and fish changes accordingly. The soup stock, simmered for extended periods, infuses the stewed vegetables and fish with profound umami flavors. The drink is just as regional and steadfast, such as the Aramasa sake, which is brewed in Akita using the oldest sake yeast. The atmosphere is revered and tranquil, with no background music to disturb the serenity. Diners settle into low tables and bathe in the view of the lush Japanese garden. In spring, the space is bathed in the soft pink showers of over 100 varieties of cherry blossoms. Summer brings the sound of cicadas, while autumn sets the foliage ablaze in bright reds. Winter wraps the scene in a serene blanket of snow. Season by season, the scenery changes.