Ebisu Sushi Hatsume

Restaurant Details

Ebisu Sushi Hatsume sits quietly among the throng of new-wave sushi concepts in a bid to carve its own niche. On paper, it doesn’t scream unorthodox. The stylish space, anchored by an L-shaped timber counter, is helmed by a chef who has tenured at a former two-starred Michelin restaurant. Even the menu strictly reads omakase — chef’s choice. Modern and contemporary? Absolutely. Out-of-the-box? Not quite.

But its killer menu, while respecting the building blocks of Japanese technique, breaks the mold of conventional high-end omakase with a fresh, original approach. If anybody needs a case point for this, ask the chef about the sushi rice, or shari. While rooted in the tradition of Tokyo-born Edomae sushi and red vinegar, it is also laced with sherry vinegar, adding an aromatic complexity to the grains that linger even when heated.

Or, perhaps look at the signature tuna head or sea urchin hotdog: vibrant orange Ogawa sea urchin sits atop succulent tuna, sandwiched between dried Maruyama “Kontobi” seaweed. Seafaring adventurers can dip their toes in several types of more unorthodox side dishes, like perfect crisped-up mozzarella cheese crowned with dried mullet roe to more traditional plates like a vinegared, broiled eel and cucumber called uzaku. Most items are sourced from Toyosu Market, the biggest fish market in the world.

Diners can score a home run by going for the sushi omakase with wine pairing, where perfectly shaped nigiri and lusciously sliced seafood double — no, triple — their flavors with the right notes of alcohol. This is a collaboration between a certified “sake meister” and the store’s sommelier sushi chef. Naturally, one cannot move on from the smoothness of sake after a bite of thinly scored gizzard shad nigiri, or the glossy, red-shining tuna against the deep burgundy of Southern France wine.

There is a playful yet intimate connection between the chef and customers in the timber-clad space. For overseas visitors hesitant about diving into omakase, the English-friendly service ensures everyone feels at ease. This is a victory worth savoring.