10 Things to Do in Arakicho: Goodbye Golden Gai, Hello Arakicho

A small, narrow neighborhood burrowed on the southerneast part of Shinjuku, the sleepy but wondrous Arakicho retains the appearance of its former identity as a geisha district. 

Today, the area is a vertical maze of low-rise housing, quaint bars and restaurants that run along its steep staircases and slim, sloping passages. Large stone slabs pave the winding alleys, which lead to streets climbing further up — or down — the hillside.

Often overshadowed by its overzealous neighbors like Golden Gai or Omoide Yokocho, Arakicho exists on its own terms. Though eerily quiet during the day, at night, the area flickers to life as strings of local eateries, many boasting Michelin stars, put out their noren curtains and light up their store front. 

The spirit of its Meiji-era heritage lingers in the air, seeming to stroll alongside modern-day patrons as they explore the area’s bars and restaurants. From Michelin-starred restaurants to gold-standard kaiseki multi-course meals, here are some of the best things to do in Arakicho.

To reach Arakicho, take the Marunouchi Line from Shinjuku Station and get off at Yotsuya-sanchome Station, just three stops away. Alternatively, you can travel via the Shinjuku Line, with a 4-minute ride to Akebonobashi Station, which is also within walking distance of the area.

Look for the giant white lantern hanging outside, emblazoned with the phrase "lifelong passion." Opening in 2014, the Arakicho restaurant Beef Nagyoshi bucked all the tropes of a fine diner: no tableside grills, no break-the-bank barbecues and no roving servers interrupting the experience. 

Instead, Nagayoshi occupies a particular niche, where owner-chef Nagayoshi Kiichiro himself grills the meat and serves it straight from the counter, where his customers sit. 

Chef Nagayoshi brings out the classics of yakiniku and weaves it into an omakase course. The menu sits at an intersection of indulgence and comfort, with dishes like namul, kimchi, and a spicy beef soup called yukgaejang to complement the rich meat selections. 

Highlights include the “uniku” — a slice of wagyu wrapped around fresh sea urchin — and charcoal-grilled skirt steak and akami (lean cuts), each paired with the restaurant's secret sauce.

Sei Takuma dreamed of running his own restaurant in Tokyo since he was a boy, although this was no surprise: his family had run a yakitori restaurant in Shizuoka. In 2008, after apprenticing at a kappo restaurant in Ebisu, he opened his eponymous concept in Arakicho.

Yakitori Sei adds its own riff to the omakase scene and the streetfood-associated chicken skewers. Instead of counter seats, dining takes place at a long communal table. No noren, either — his peekable storefront is made of glass. 

He stakes the restaurant's reputation on Hinaiji chicken thigh meat from Akita Prefecture, which always gets served first to kick off the evening. As with omakase, the menu changes with the seasons, but guests can also enjoy comforting dishes like tori ramen (chicken ramen) and kama-meshi — rice perfumed fresh chicken broth on a traditional iron pot. 

This venue is an evolution of Chef Kondo Akihiro’s foremost Arakicho tempura establishment, Washoku Kondo, which he founded in 2012. Driven by his desire for patrons to experience the “extraordinary” aspects of Japanese cuisine, he brings a new wave of kappo-style courses to life, prepared directly in front of them at Chiso Kondo.

Chef Kondo orchestrates his dishes around a central theme, often focusing on a single seasonal ingredient. In autumn, he brings out the earthy allure of matsutake mushrooms, while the summer heat elevates the delicate flavors of sweetfish and eel. 

Each course explores a specific ingredient in new and unexpected ways, offering diners the opportunity to experience that ingredient in a kaleidoscope of flavors.

Kondo Akihiro’s original concept, now rebranded as Arakicho Tenpaku, takes tempura to a refined, unadulterated level, fried with taihaku sesame oil. There’s none of the heaviness or greasiness often associated with deep-fried dishes. Each bite delivers a delicate crunch that lets the natural flavors shine through in their purest form.

Dining at Arakicho Tenpaku is an omakase experience, and the menu includes incredibly light and crispy vegetables like okra and matsutake mushrooms, as well as premium seafood like meaty prawns. 

The grand finale of the course is a special kakiage tempura paired with warm claypot rice, complemented by a soothing Japanese tea infusion. In the spirit of the Zen saying it draws inspiration from — seiten hakujitsu (blue skies, white sunlight) — Arakicho Tenpaku is about technique-driven simplicity, with nothing to hide.

The former head chef of Kagurazaka’s Zaza, Hoiruchi Sayaka, is making her mark with her first solo venture in Arakicho, weaving an omakase course rooted in her love for the land and sea. On her hyperlocal and singular approach, she commenced, "All the ingredients I put on the plate are main roles.”

Six years after Oryori Horiuchi, she finally hit the Michelin gong — and continued with her business as usual. In her omakase, she presents the conger eel shabu-shabu, a standout, paired with boneless and bone-in eel, matsutake mushrooms and Kumamoto’s nankanage (deep-fried tofu). 

Rustic dishes, like her hearty chicken offal stew, pay homage to her roots in Yamanashi Prefecture. In the summer months, Horiuchi grills sweetfish, while soft-shelled turtle makes an appearance in her delicate chawanmushi. 

Featured in The Ghostly Tales of Japan, Muchi no Ike — or “The Pond of the Whip” — derives its name from a legendary story involving Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo period. It’s said that Ieyasu washed his horse whip in this very pond.

Historically, the pond in Arakicho spanned 130 meters in length and 40 meters in width, with a natural four-meter waterfall. After the end of the feudal system in 1868, the land was opened to the public, and tea houses were built around the pond where around 200 geisha entertained guests. 

Today, Muchi no Ike tells more of a folk story than a heroic one. The once vast pond, which has shrunk to a few meters, is believed to be home to kappa, mythical and mischievous water creatures. 

During the dry season, all that remains of the pond is a tiny pool contained by the nearby Tsunokami Benzaiten shrine.

Just by the pond lies a modest shrine dedicated to Benzaiten, the goddess of water, music and love. While it may not rival the grandeur of Japan's Three Great Shrines of Benzaiten, its charm lies in its simplicity. Surrounded by houses in a quaint stretch, a short bridge connects visitors to the honden — the elevated main sanctuary.

Read more: Japanese Shrines and Dieties Related to Food

Whether it’s the ambiance (bare counter, stunning crockery and more), the one Michelin-starred Arakicho Tatsuya woos its guests with style and substance. This is what you get when the formal kaiseki of Kyoto and the more casual kappo of Osaka meet in the middle. 

Owner-chef Ishiyama Tatsuya runs the show entirely on his own, from sourcing premium ingredients to serving exquisitely plated dishes. His approach? Minimal processing to let the ingredients shine. 

The flavors are rooted in classic kaiseki, but Ishiyama adds creative touches emblematic of the Kitchen of the Nation, like his soy sauce and dashi jelly topped with squid sashimi. This is a well-navigated, one-man boat. 

After a 13-year tenure at Nadaman, Chef Murata took a risk in 2005 to open Suzunari, tucked in one of Arakicho’s back alleys. It’s a gamble that paid off. In 2012, it clinched its first Michelin Star and held onto it for another five years. 

As a staunch advocate for Japanese produce, Murata excels in seasonal cooking. Although, some seasonal items have turned from maverick to mainstays due to popularity. 

His raw sea urchin tamajimushi — a silky, chawanmushi-style dish generously topped with fresh sea urchin — has become a signature after countless requests from loyal clientele. 

Seasonal highlights include bluefin tuna paired with a luscious egg yolk sauce, kegani crab with ginger in spring, or kurumaebi (Japanese tiger prawn) served with persimmons, ginkgo nuts and kinoko mushrooms in the fall.

Dinner always concludes with takekomi gohan (seasoned rice). Any leftovers are molded into onigiri for guests to take home.

Set among rows of equally small eateries in Arakicho, Yakitori Ogawa, helmed by Chef Ogawa, reimagines the Japanese chicken skewers through his own lens. 

He is the sole cook in the open kitchen and a maestro in bringing a neck-to-tail approach into his yakitori omakase course. Every part of the chicken has its place in the gourmet package — thigh and breast meat enjoy a place alongside more adventurous cuts like hearts and liver.

The sound of crackling charcoal mingles with the buzz of conversations and keeps the energy going late into the night. Guests can choose from multi-course dining options, including a decadent 10-course menu or a lighter tasting experience. 

Expect unexpected delights like silky liver pate, chicken sashimi and eyebrow-raising skewers of orange day-lily bulbs, all served on ornate plates.

If you’re heading over to Shinjuku instead, browse the best Shinjuku nightlife spots. Or if you are looking for things to eat, check out Shinjuku’s best sushi, best ramen and the best food tours for everything else!

Often called “Memory Lane,” Omoide Yokocho sits just west of Shinjuku Station and is a tight-knit labyrinth of narrow alleys lined with tiny yakitori joints and standing bars. 

Golden Gai, on the other hand, is Shinjuku’s playground for nightlife enthusiasts and bar-hoppers. Located in the Kabukicho district, this cluster of six alleys is packed with over 200 micro-bars. 

For budget-friendly eating and nostalgic vibes, head to Omoide Yokocho. Golden Gai is perfect for nightlife adventures or those looking for atmospheric drinking with a more global feel. 

Currently, there are around 300-plus local restaurants and bars in Arakicho. 

Arakicho is home to plenty of current and former Michelin restaurants, including Arakicho Tatsuya, Arakicho Kintsugi, Oryori Horiuchi and Suzunari.