Udondokoro Shigemi

The beloved joint recently relocated from Osaka’s Honmachi area to a snug, narrow space in Nishitenma—and its loyal fans have eagerly followed. Here, they’ll continue to see owner-chef Ogawa Yusaku, who has worked at esteemed udon shops in Kagawa and Osaka, working directly with his dough. Using Kyushu-grown wheat, he creates the bouncy, squiggly noodles in two varieties: the Kagawa-hailed Sanuki and Kansai-style, reflecting his background. Ogawa’s udons are uncomplicated and nurturing—the kind that gets you through a rough day. His menu is anchored by his signature white dashi, which draws its flavor from kelp, dried urume (sardines) and mackerel. Diners can’t go wrong with the lunch set that includes chikuwa tempura and a choice of raw egg or sardine-topped rice bowl. Follow the reviews and opt for the ultra-simplistic cold noodles, where thick udon is immersed in a beautifully golden-hued broth. Alternatively, the bukkake udon, with its thicker and more robust broth, is a dependable favorite. Condiments are minimal, with green onions and ginger served separately to be added gradually as you eat. The comfort factor is ever-present, with a gentle umami that speaks for itself. Michelin Guide accolades 2024 - Bib Gourmand