Gomangoku Honten

The ethos of omotenashi — Japan’s selfless hospitality — and the soul of Toyama’s bounty beats strongly on the grounds of Gomangoku Honten. The restaurant occupies a space in Sakuramachi with a handsome interior punctuated by tatami floors, stunning counter seating and a traditionalist banquet-style table setting. But if the scene doesn’t transport you to Etchu — an ancient province that is now Toyama — their kaiseki-style fine dining will. Ocean-caught and mountain-gathered ingredients form the body of Gomangoku’s menu, and rightfully so: Toyama has plenty to show with a topography that segues from mountainous terranes and fertile plains to spectacular waterways that border the Sea of Japan. Yellowtail, or "buri" in Japanese and nicknamed "King of Toyama Bay," becomes a winter-special fish cooked in a milky white shabu-shabu broth made from kelp stock and soy milk. Barracuda, crab, shrimp and sushi make gripping appetizers, but the himi udon — Toyama-style noodles with a chewier bite and thinner cut — add a homespun touch. Other seafood highlights include steamed tilefish, crab and salt-grilled sweetfish, while micro-seasonal, local vegetables might make their way after the sashimi platter. It’s a jaw-dropping experience from start to finish. The kimono-clad waitresses pour sake — preference is put on local ginjo sake — and exude warmth. The presentation on the plates pops with color and mirrors the beauty of the prefecture. The appeal of Gomangoku Honten lies in loyalty to tradition and a forward-thinking attitude.