Sushibun

"Established in the 1800s," proclaims the signage at its storefront. This 150-year-old sushi restaurant originated as a humble food stall in Nihonbashi, during the era when Tokyo was known as Edo and Nihombashi bustled with a thriving fish market. In those early days, with refrigeration yet to be invented, sushi toppings were predominantly cooked: conger eel stewed in a thick sauce, boiled yellowtail and simmered abalone. Nori (Japanese seaweed) came from the Ariake Sea, near the Sushibun’s first owner's ancestral home in Saga Prefecture. Today, Sushibun has found its home in Toyosu Market, where it continues to attract a devoted following of sushi enthusiasts despite its recent relocation from Tsukiji Market. If anything, the lines have grown even longer. The tradition of Edomae sushi, cherished over five generations, thrives under the stewardship of its current chef-owner, Hirano Aya. Certain elements remain unchanged: the steadfast use of wild-caught fish, the crafting of homemade soy sauce from traditional recipes and the practice of serving generously sized neta (fish). Thickly sliced and sourced fresh from the market just meters away, they sit atop red-vinegared shari (sushi rice). For newcomers, consider the omakase set menu, featuring hearty nigiri with seasonal fish, or indulge in the chirashi bowl — a sushi rice bowl blanketed with over 10 types of toppings including fatty tuna, sea urchin and salmon roe. Reservations at Sushibun are available but can be challenging to secure, so it is advisable to plan ahead.