Sushi mahoroba

It’s 2 am in northern Shinsaibashi, Osaka’s neon-lit shopping arcade, and the warm glow from this noren-clad sushi bar is still as alive and vibrant as ever. Small, cozy and welcoming, Sushi mahoroba stands among some of the best after-hours eateries in the city and heaves night after night with nocturnal folks to serve masterfully molded sushi until 3 am. Set in a space rendered in warm wood, 12 seats hug the dramatically curved counter, where behind it are loyal sushi craftsmen who mold shari (sushi rice) by hand and place the freshest seafood on top to form nigiri. Its reputation isn’t hinged on its late-night hours either. Sushi mahoroba’s streaming, hyper-conscious mind yields traditional sushi creations splashed with modern vibrancy. Fish sourced directly from the market transforms into beautiful pieces expected from a fine diner. Vinegared mackerel and boiled conger eel become exquisite nigiri, and the fatty otoro tuna from its omakase course has a pinch of soy sauce to punch out its deep umami flavor. From elsewhere, there are small bites and hand-rolled sushi known as temakizushi. The firefly squid soused in soy sauce tastes almost rustic, while the scallops grilled with butter show that it doesn’t shy away from new recipes. The menu works just as well for snacking as it does for a full meal. Come in for an approachable second stop on a boozy night, or book a private room for intimate high-end dining. ※ Sushi mahoroba is open until 3 am daily, except on Sundays and national holidays when it closes at 12 am.