Hozenji Sushidokoro Nakatani

Tucked in the stone-paved alley of Hozenji Yokocho in Osaka, Hozenji Sushidokoro Nakatani was born from chef-owner Hiroyuki Nakatani’s deep-seated love for sushi. His career beginning was a humble one; started as a part-time worker at a sushi joint while still a student, Nakatani dedicated four years to mastering his skills in Tokyo before spending another six years at the famed Noguchi in Osaka. On the day he opened his independent venture in 2015, Nakatani began with a familiar ritual: visiting his long-standing fish vendors to handpick the best catch. Even after earning four consecutive Michelin stars from 2017 to 2020, you’ll still find him behind the hinoki wood counter, which seats eight guests, and preparing fresh seafood sourced from the same trusted suppliers. He is particular about how the fish are raised and caught, and local ingredients form the bedrock of his Edo-style sushi. For first-time diners, coming to his restaurant can seem daunting, but his sushi is meant to be effortlessly enjoyable and, most of all, approachable. Ever the attentive and personable host, he leans over as he asks what seafood you like, and nods when you mention your favorite dish while shaping the next nigiri. He doesn’t raise an eyebrow when you ask for a reorder and is happy to tell you that he uses kasuzu (red vinegar made with sake lees) to remain true to traditional Edomae sushi. Then there’s a final touch of personalization: Nakatani invites diners to choose from ten types of seasonal sake, including Junmai Daiginjo and Daiginjo, to compliment your sushi selection.