Sushi Kawashima

With a name like Sushi Kawashima, guests enter expecting traditional Edomae sushi, with its noren and dignified hinting at what awaits inside. Idiosyncrasies that make all the difference, however, like the plain facade that looks more contemporary art gallery than an eatery and its wood-burned beverage menu block. Chef Kawashima Hiroyuki certainly has his preferences, all of which are laid out front and center for diners. Seating is limited to a few spots with recessed foot space along a soft Hinoki cypress counter so delicate that the restaurant even provides a cushion for wristwatches. While the nigiri is Edomae style, it's unlike any sushi guests will find elsewhere. The restaurant pays particular attention to a sub-type of sushi called “kakinoha-zushi” — pressed sushi made of salted fish and vinegared rice wrapped in kakinoha (persimmon leaf). The chef blends locally grown Sasanishiki and Akitakomachi rice with red vinegar in the traditional Edomae nigiri style and adds sake lees vinegar for an out-of-the-box acidity. The menu includes a wide variety of prepared dishes that take advantage of aging or preservation. Kawashima makes room for creativity with wasabi sourced from a partner farm in Wakayama and left tableside for guests to serve themselves. Delicate knife treatment sees cuts of fish become bows and shellfish into blooming flowers. The tamagoyaki for the closing dish is branded with his name, leaving a lasting impression. Michelin Guide: 2022 - 2024 - 1 Michelin Star