Sushi Kato

It may not seem like it from the bustle and bright lights, but there is a constant war going on in the back streets of Akasaka, and the vast majority of people who pass through the glitzy district have no idea that it’s even happening. But Akasaka is a full-blown battleground of some of the best chefs in Japan, each vying for the top position. Losing means closing up shop, but the word “loss” is conspicuously absent from Chef Kenji Kato’s dictionary. Thus far he has defeated all comers to establish himself as one of the top sushi chefs in the viciously competitive gastronomic environment that is Akasaka. With his family in the business of selling construction materials, it seems odd that Chef Kato would end up in sushi. Nonetheless, after seeing the importance of food in everyday life, he was compelled to join the restaurant industry. A part-time stint at a sushi restaurant solidified his decision to become a sushi chef, which culminated in the establishment of Sushi Kato in 2010. Only the best survive in Akasaka, and Chef Kato’s secret weapon is his koshihikari rice from Toyama Prefecture, whose small grains are an important component of his nigiri’s shari base. A chef is also no greater than his fundamentals, and fundamentals are something that Chef Kato gets very right. In spite of the huge variety of sushi served at his counter, his most enduring nigiri are the traditional Edomae staples of gizzard shad (kohada) and conger eel (anago). Sake connoisseurs won’t be disappointed either by the selection of spirits at his counter, which include shochu, sake, draft beer, wine and even champagne.