Ike Edoyakiunagi Asahitei

When Morimoto Hideki took over Ike Edoyakiunagi Asahitei, an unagi joint established in 1964, he was already accustomed to the demanding world of unagi chefs. His father — whom Morimoto describes as “an eccentric man” — was a revered unagi master from Tokyo and had insisted he begin training in the art of grilling freshwater eel at 18, even though grilling is traditionally the final step in a lengthy apprenticeship. Diners come knowing every aspect of the restaurant is steeped in history. Located in Uda, once the lumber town of Nara, the restaurant is decked with tables cut from a single 400-year-old cedar tree. The wainscoting is made from Kasuga cedar, now protected and unharvestable, while the signs and shelves are crafted from 800-year-old cedar. Elsewhere, the transoms in the partitions, such as shoji screens, date back to the Edo period. Nowadays, Morimoto employs Edo-style grilling techniques inherited from his father. He insists on personally sourcing freshwater eel, believing that, like the patterns of kimonos and the nuances of people, quality must be seen firsthand. Morimoto steams the eel beforehand to remove excess fat. The tare-coated unagi is then placed atop a bed of fluffy Koshihikari rice purchased from local farmers. The accompanying pickles are made from local root vegetables, and the soup stock is enriched with Hokkaido kelp and two types of bonito flakes. The journey to a bowl of unadon — eel on top of rice — is long and meticulous but ultimately rewarding. Even the chopsticks are carefully selected for their compatibility with the eel: fragrant Yoshino cedar. Michelin Guide accolades: 2017 - Bib Gourmand 2022 - 2024 - Bib Gourmand