Sushi Toiro

Restaurant Details

Omakase these days often blends fusion flavors, but Sushi Toiro, a stunning newcomer in a quiet Kichijoji neighborhood, feels like a more serious affair — a 22-course journey into the encyclopedia of sushi.

Opened in 2024, this hidden gem is led by a chef who spent six years at a sushi restaurant, 20 years at a sushi-kappo venue and four years of creative sushi concept. These experiences are distilled into Sushi Toiro, with its name — a wordplay on the Japanese words for “ten” and “color” — symbolizing the idea that while it might serve ten guests each night, each experience is as distinct as ten different colors.

At the counter, diners are often struck with awe between bites of horse mackerel and meringue-soft tuna head nigiri, a rare delicacy that’s seared to bring out its savory aroma while remaining even softer than fatty tuna. Reactions like these are common, amplified by the succession of sushi that follows: meltingly plush saba (blue mackerel) and sweet squid, which has an endearing crunch that bursts with sweetness as it softens in the mouth.

Sushi Toiro certainly lives up to a reputation for technique over tricks, too. Temperature-controlled sushi rice is laced with red vinegar, true to Edo fashion. Time-honored, classic nigiri, such as glossy chutoro tuna and plump, sweet shrimp, are served with minimal embellishment to highlight the quality of the ingredients. Most neta (fish topping) are picked from the Toyosu Fish Market by the head chef himself, and side dishes are just as commanding as the main sushi act.

Located on the basement floor of a nondescript building, the venue’s hideaway spirit conceals a stunning, Japanese-style space with a polished wood counter. Pay attention to the lighting, positioned to highlight the sushi served directly from the chef’s hand.