Sumiyakitori Sato

There is one particular brand of chicken that can withstand Otaru’s cold, dense air and icy climes, resilient against disease and seemingly unbothered by the snow: the Otaru Jidori. Exclusively raised by a single farmer, these chickens are nurtured on a diet that includes locally sourced garlic, soybean pulp from a nearby tofu shop, corn and crushed oyster shells. In central Sapporo, the Otaru Jidori finds a welcoming home at Sumiyakitori Sato, a yakitori stalwart who happens to be one of its biggest ambassadors. The venue is a small-space, big-vibe establishment where the Binchotan charcoal grill is kept white-hot, and the counter mimics the style of a high-end kappo, featuring a tray as a table mat for the chef to serve skewers directly. Behind the grill station, owner-chef Sato Seiichi dons a pristine white chef's uniform as he fans off the smoke. After honing his skills as an apprentice at the popular yakitori-ya Kiyoyama in Susukino, he launched his now-eponymous concept in 2020, delivering chicken skewers through a nose-to-tail approach. The dining experience is strictly omakase so Sato can focus on extracting the full anatomical potential of the chicken. His years of training inform him on how to grill each part of the bird. The soft breast meat is enhanced with a kick of wasabi, while crunchy bits of cartilage and the velvety yet slightly firm skin offer a delightful play of textures. The final dish typically served is oyakodon, made with Otaru Jidori chicken thighs and another local brand from Hokkaido, grilled over charcoal. The U-shaped counter design means that most seats offer a chef's table experience, but the three seats at the apex are the most coveted, facing the grill directly.