Sumiyakisosaitoriya Hitomi

Chef Hitomi from this brisk Bib Gourmand izakaya believes three things: a smile, a sense of empowerment and individuality. His fatherly demeanor and positive attitude extend to everyone who walks through the doors. The space itself is charmingly simple and classically Japanese. The counter seats on the first floor offer a chance to watch Hitomi master the flames in his Kishu-binchotan charcoal grill, while the second floor is perfect for friends who want to laugh a little louder and chat a tad longer. The menu covers all the yakitori essentials: meatballs, thigh meat skewered with portions of negi onion, chicken hearts and gizzards. It also features a selection of specialty preparations reserved for Hitomi’s stock of locally raised chickens from Kyoto, adolescent birds and sometimes birds from next-door Tamba in Hyogo prefecture. Salt — or “shio” — is the special seasoning here, and guests come from near and far to try the rare thigh tataki and signature “tori-hire” cut. It’s no surprise that reservations are hard to score. Order a glass of nama beer or a cup of sake — there’s no wrong way to end the night. Michelin Guide 2024 - Bib Gourmand