Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho Marronnier Gate Ginza 1

Restaurant Details

Nagoya may be famous for being the manufacturing capital of Japan, but just as importantly it’s just as famous for being the freshwater eel — unagi — capital of the nation. Eel is synonymous with Nagoya and Aichi Prefecture, which is precisely why the Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho series of restaurants have found themselves doing so well throughout their expansion through Japan.

The restaurant’s reputation has garnered it access to some of the finest suppliers of eel in the whole of Aichi Prefecture. This eel is made into the restaurant’s signature dish, hitsumabushi, an Aichi specialty of eel over rice eaten three ways. First, it is eaten in its unadulterated form of just eel and rice, then with traditional condiments and seasonings like wasabi and seaweed. Finally, the last third is eaten with dashi broth poured over it, making it a sort of ochazuke, or soup with rice that brings a satisfying end to the experience.

Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho also brings the uniqueness of Kansai-style unagi preparation to its various locations further north. There are two schools of unagi, the Edomae or Kanto style, which involves steaming the eel before grilling it for a fluffier texture. The Kansai style, which Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho prefers, is directly grilled without boiling, giving it a satisfying crunch. It’s a rare opportunity to try this style without having to make the trip down south from Tokyo.

The restaurant may have Hitsumabushi as part of its name, but hitsumabushi is far from the only thing it serves (though it is without a doubt the highlight of many of the restaurant’s courses). The appeal of dining at Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho is also the opportunity to try Aichi’s famous unagi in a number of different forms. Start the meal off with satisfyingly crunchy hone-senbei, crackers made out of deep-fried eel bones — a winning Aichi delicacy great both as an appetizer or drinking snack. Then try eel liver one of two ways, either boiled and served with wasabi, or grilled. The possibilities are almost endless.

Tokyo is home to several of the Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho restaurants, but the one that sees the most foot traffic is arguably the one in Marronnier Gate Ginza 1, in the heart of the city’s poshest district. An appropriately luxurious delicacy for a luxurious part of town.