Japan is a country famous worldwide for its art scene. From the ever-popular and accessible world of manga to the not-so-accessible art installations of Naoshima Island, there’s something for everyone. Eating art may not be on everyone’s Japan itinerary, but what if we told you there’s a perfectly safe (and legal) way to get your hands on some edible art? It’s called amezaiku, a traditional Japanese sweet that’s been around for centuries.
The name of this wagashi Japanese sweet translates literally as “candy craftwork,” with ame meaning “candy” and haiku meaning “crafts” or “handiwork.” To the untrained eye, they may just look like machine-made lollipops, but each piece of amezaiku candy is painstakingly handcrafted. Even the most intricately detailed realistic goldfish! But why do these edible art pieces exist, and how does one become a master candy craftsman? Stick with us, and you’ll see!
The history of amezaiku candy in Japan
Did you know this sweet treat supposedly dates all the way back to the 8th century? Although evidence to back this claim only exists in oral tradition, there are firsthand written accounts of amezaiku candy-making dating back to the 1700s. According to these accounts, amezaiku started as street performances done by traveling salesmen. Lined along the streets leading up to temples and shrines, these salesmen would blow air into molten candy, much like glassblowing, and then craft it into various simple shapes. Some would tell stories as they worked, to entrance their audiences even more. In its heyday, amezaiku was called “amenotori” which means “candy birds”. This name supposedly comes from the shape most commonly made by salesmen during their candy-making performances — birds!
By the mid-20th century, amezaiku was close to becoming a lost art form. Hygiene concerns over germs spreading from craftsmen to customers led to the illegalization of candy blowing and candy making in streetside stalls. As such, amezaiku candy sculptors shifted to a more modern take on a nomadic lifestyle, performing at festivals and special events. The few brick-and-mortar shops that exist tend to consist of a master candy sculptor and their apprentices - the craft is learned by doing, and the few candy sculptors that exist want to make sure the craft stays alive! Masters pass their techniques on to their apprentices, much like any other traditional Japanese craft.
How to make amezaiku sculpture candy?
Over the years, amezaiku evolved into a far more intricate process than the simple blown candy balloons of the 1700s. Modern-day amezaiku candy-making involves a whole lot of finesse and not a whole lot of time. A starchy sugar mix called mizuame is heated to 93 degrees Celcius and attached to a stick. Candy sculptors then race against the clock to create intricate designs, all while using only their hands and a pair of traditional candy-cutting scissors. Once the sculpting is complete, the finished candy sculpture is decorated using food coloring. The sculpting process takes less than 30 minutes, and skilled craftsmen can make designs like rabbits, frogs, goldfish, and so much more within a short time frame!
5 places to try amezaiku in Japan
- Asakusa Amezaiku Ameshin Hanakawado Studio
- Asakusa Amezaiku Ameshin Tokyo Sky Tree
- Suzuki's Amezaiku
- Amezaiku Amenotori
- Amezaiku Specialty Store Suzumeya
1. Asakusa Amezaiku Ameshin Hanakawado Studio in Tokyo
You don’t need to go to a festival or special event to catch an amezaiku performance at Amezaiku Ameshin’s Hanakawado Studio! This candy shop in Asakusa is the head office of the Tezuka Arts & Crafts candy-making company, and it is at this location that you can try your hand at making amezaiku all by yourself. At Ameshin’s amezaiku candy sculpting workshop, a master candy sculptor will show you how to make a candy rabbit. You’ll then have two tries to get used to the handling of the tools and hot candy before your final attempt. The rabbit you make on your third attempt is what you’ll bring home as a delicious souvenir, as long as you resist the urge to eat it before you get home!
2. Asakusa Amezaiku Ameshin at Tokyo Sky Tree
This branch of Amezaiku Ameshin is conveniently located in Solamachi, the shopping center at the base of Tokyo Sky Tree. The store, opened in 2015, was the first shop opened by the Tezuka Arts & Crafts Company. The Solamachi store focuses on selling the full range of amezaiku creations made by the candy craftsmen who work under the tutelage of Shinri Tezuka, the company’s founder. If you’re lucky, you can catch a live performance by one of the candy sculptors!
3. Suzuki’s Amezaiku in Saitama
Enjoy a rare treat in Kawagoe’s Kashiya Yokocho, or Candy Alley, where you can recreate amezaiku candy-making history! Suzuki’s Amezaiku is one of the only shops in Japan where customers can make candy using the traditional candy-blowing technique. Since customers are responsible for blowing their own amezaiku candy here, this unique experience is 100% legal! Of course, you can also watch the candy makers as they make amezaiku, and explore the other candy shops that make up Candy Alley.
4. Amezaiku Amenotori in Osaka
One of very few brick-and-mortar amazaiku candy stores outside of the Tokyo metropolitan area, Amazaiku Amenotori is located in Tempozan Market Place near one of Osaka’s biggest tourist draws, the Kaiyuukan Aquarium! As such, you can expect to find tons of aquatic creatures on their shelves, like whale sharks and penguins. The main sculptor, Yoshiki Yamamoto, also enjoys creating mini “picture books” using photos of her candy creations. She posts her tiny candy stories to the shop's social media frequently! More information.
5. Amezaiku Specialty Store Suzumeya in Sapporo
One of the only amezaiku candy shops located in Hokkaido, Suzumeya offers candy-making demonstrations and workshops! Opened in 2022, Suzumeya is run by Yutaka Ogasawara, the vice president of the Japan Amezaiku Association, a group of candy makers dedicated to keeping the art form alive. If you’re planning a trip to Sapporo to enjoy the ice and snow, why not stop by this location for a sweet treat?
Looking for sweet, sweet experiences? See our curated list of wagashi workshops in Japan.
Bonus: Catch a member of the Japan Amezaiku Association in the wild!
Many of Japan’s amezaiku artisans retain the nomadic nature of the trade — making a living by making candy on the spot at festivals and events, plus holding pop-up amezaiku workshops. If you want to see history in action and help support a fading industry, head out to one of the wood-and-fabric stalls of the performing amezaiku artisans. You’re not guaranteed to spot a stall at every event you stop by, but that makes finding one of these elusive sculptors all the sweeter! If you want an edge on finding some of these sculptors, check out the Japan Amazaiku Association’s homepage (Japanese only).
Still on the fence about adding an amezaiku candy stop to your itinerary? Watch ByFood’s Shizuka attempt to craft her own! Or, check out these other traditional sweets classes!
