Michelin-Starred Moments in Asakusa: A Review of HOMMAGE

As you step into a two-Michelin-starred restaurant like HOMMAGE, expectations run incredibly high. A delicious meal, although foretold, is not enough — you expect a truly exceptional dining experience. 

It is nothing short of remarkable when, once the dinner is over, you are left with the feeling that the restaurant not only delivered on the towering promise of culinary excellence imprinted in its accolades, but also managed to take your already impossible expectations to new heights.

Chef Arai Noboru’s extraordinary creations prove that seemingly discordant French and Japanese cuisines can have a harmonious marriage through creative pairings, unexpected textures, meticulous flavors and a profound respect for the culinary craft. 

Join us to uncover why this quietly unassuming restaurant in the heart of Asakusa has been awarded two Michelin stars — and, most importantly, why it’s kept them both in the many years since.

Asakusa, an area in central Tokyo known for its striking contrast of tradition and modernity, is home to the Sensoji Temple and unparalleled views of Tokyo Skytree, making it one of the most popular areas among tourists visiting Japan. 

But don’t expect a crowd in HOMMAGE. Nestled in a robust concrete building on a quiet street about 1.6 km from Asakusa Station, away from the tourist groups and the bustle of cars, only the rustling of leaves from a nearby weeping willow can be heard as we arrive. 

Expecting us is the kimono-clad proprietress and Chef Arai’s wife, Arai Mayuka, who greets us warmly before leading us up the stairs to our seats.

One might think that a fine dining restaurant would flaunt the latest trends in interior design or, perhaps, adopt a signature bold aesthetic. The first thing that strikes me as I sit down is how minimalistic the interior is. 

There are no paintings on the walls and no background music. Simple white tablecloths and dark brown chairs are perhaps the most prominent features. Devoid of unnecessary fluff, the space feels airy and elegant, providing the perfect setting for the food to take center stage. 

One thing that surprises me is the cutlery. A common feature of fine dining restaurants are the many forks, spoons and knives waiting on the table; instead, cutlery is brought together with each dish at HOMMAGE, making for an uncomplicated dining experience. 

Interestingly enough, the interiors and overall philosophy of the restaurant seem to mirror Arai’s approach to cuisine, which strips away the unessential to uncover the core beneath.

Chef Arai is an Asakusa native trained in Tokyo restaurants and fine dining establishments in the South of France before returning to open this restaurant in his hometown. 

Drawing from his impressive culinary background, he crafts a French-inspired menu with extensive use of Japanese ingredients and a strong focus on seasonality. Therefore, don’t expect the menu to always be the same. 

Instead, the chef displays culinary skill by constantly innovating with seasonal ingredients, for which it is worth going to the restaurant more than once to experience new flavors and dishes.

The restaurant’s iconic potato and leek cream vichyssoise crowned with caviar, for one, doesn't make an appearance during our visit on a hot and humid summer evening. Instead, the menu seems aptly designed to bring a much-needed refresh. 

First is an assortment of cold entrees, including tomato confit bruschetta, olives, a cold cucumber tartare vegetable dish and Arai’s signature chickpea hummus, a specialty from his experience in the South of France. 

No vichyssoise doesn’t mean there isn't any soup. We are served a delightful cold iwashi soup with okra, sardines and tomato, served alongside a delectable mackerel nigiri. 

What comes next is bold — a squid tartar topped with dumplings covered in quinoa, mixed berries and colorful flowers concealing hidden watermelon spheres underneath. Juicy and colorful, this combination is in no way overwhelming, doting the pleasant crisp of quinoa with just the right amount of sweetness, which provides a great contrast with what is yet to come.

Next, we're served a trio of amuse-bouche: a hors d'oeuvre with sudachi-pickled daikon radish over cured ham and an exquisite foie gras with bergamot jam, a choux pastry filled with marinated sweetfish, avocado, paprika and tomato, and a pastry cup filled with tofu and covered in string beans in sesame dressing. 

Apart from their striking flavors, the way they're plated on the table is also unusual, creating an interesting conjunction of elements that yet again defies expectations.

Another highlight is the mousses. On the one hand, a melt-in-your-mouth sea urchin (uni) served under a mellow corn cream mousse and sprinkled with a dash of coffee powder, a genius combination with a slightly tangy twist, is a treat for all senses. On the other, a glossy mozzarella mousse that concealed fresh mozzarella with basil oil and pickled plum sauce. Both combine subtle textures with just the right tang, and their smooth mouthfeel provides a perfect antidote for the Japanese summer heat.

Next up is a longfin tuna filet in a foamy white miso sauce with mussels, green beans and potatoes. Buttery and tender, the white meat is infused with the miso umami and was deliciously sweet. 

But the true depth of flavor comes with the last main course, a Sendai wagyu beef belly blanketed with a wagyu bresaola ham and topped with a thin slice of Manganji pepper. 

This incredible combination came to Arai with a twofold inspiration: first, after tasting beef with prosciutto in Paris, then when he tasted beef served with Manganji peppers, paired by the hand of Chef Inoue Katsuhito at the Ritz-Carlton in Kyoto. Surprised by how amazingly well they went together, Arai then decided to combine the three ingredients in a marriage of flavor that just works.

While most restaurants seem to think of dessert as something like an afterthought, that isn’t the case in HOMMAGE, where the same intricate care put into the main course is extended to the dessert courses. 

As a sweet tooth, I was elated with the four different courses, each attesting to the chef’s creative take on local dishes with European inspiration:

• Kaminari-okoshi: a delicacy paying tribute to Asakusa’s extraordinary legacy. A soft soy milk-based blancmange mousse filled with sorbet on a bed of crispy sweet peanut and rice crackers, elegantly topped with a gold leaf.

• An ethereal chantilly vanilla cream with chopped hazelnuts and mousse sprinkled with lime zest.

• A fresh peach and myoga jelly with lemon and thyme infused with lemon juice and topped with a scoop of creamy almond ice cream.

• Ningyo-yaki financier served with fresh seasonal fruit; in another creative wink to Asakusa, the financiers were shaped like famous Asakusa landmarks, like the Kaminarimon Gate and Five-Storied Pagoda.

Elegant and uncomplicated, HOMMAGE proves that fine dining can be unpretentious and meticulously precise. After dinner, we are escorted out by the kimono-clad proprietress and have the chance to greet the chef.

What might have made the greatest impression is probably the whole spirit of gratitude embodied by Chef Arai, his wife, their staff and their cuisine. Gratitude is part of the restaurant’s name, after all. 

Little details like the cartoony sketches of the Arai family on which the caneles are served, or even the love for the Asakusa locality expressed through the financiers’ designs, made the whole thing strangely intimate. 

Make no mistake, HOMMAGE is fine dining at its finest, but there is a tangibly personal aspect to the whole experience. And maybe this is the most impressive of all of Chef Arai’s achievements; not his multiple Michelin accolades, or his storied career, but his persistent humility in spite of it all.